Rome to Brindisi 2009

Wed September 2 we were back on CG in Riva di Traiano just in time to be launched before the boatyard shut.We filled up with diesel 1.20€/litre before going to the allocated berth. The bow thruster wouldn't work so we had electricians in the next day. We have a long fin & skeg and the bow thruster is really useful when berthing stern- to in tight situations. A Lagoon42 came in and we learnt they had been fined 350€ for anchoring off Monte Cristo island - a designated reserve.

Fri 4 we left for Porto Touristico di Roma marina. We noted that the entrance was very shallow as we entered. The next morning the strong SW wind was blowing straight in and had created serious breakers in the entrance - the marina was closed for the day. We paid 45€ for another night. Sun 6 wind now NE, entrance calm we left, and could sail on a tight reach. We had hoped to go to Nettuno marina but they were full and said go to Anzio. As we entered a fisherman whistled and waved us onto the quay beside his boat. We had to drop the anchor quick and reverse in - he asked for 10€. Yachts that came in later and anchored in the harbour were moved on by the port police because of the many ferries coming in. Anzio that evening was alive with music and people. There were stalls selling sweets and peanuts, and in the square tables were laid for the crowds queuing for prawns and chips.

We left 0800 Mon 7 and arrived 1600 at Marina Base Nautica Flavio Gioia expecting to find a family welcome according to the Pilot - but we were put on the outer superyacht pontoon and charged 62€ for the night. Another english yacht came in - they had had engine problems and San Felice Circeo ( half way from Anzio) didn't want to know or let them in! About 2200 the wind really picked up creating a big swell and our pontoon snaked alarmingly. We left the next morning in a F4 with one reef in. The wind increased as forecast to F6-7 so a second reef was put in but somehow in warm sun, warm water and blue sky reefing was easy. We were heading for Chiaolella harbour on the S of Procida Island. There are 3 separate places to berth here. We phoned 2 of them without luck but the third - Santa Margherita - answered and helped us to berth. It would have been 55€ a night but for 10 nights we paid 40€ a night.

From Chiaolella to Procida town on the N coast was a 20 minute "hang on to something" bus ride, clattering through narrow tiled  streets with scooters somehow passing between bus and wall. In the marina in Procida Town we would have paid 62€/n.  Chris & Hazel who had come to Palma last year arrived on the ferry from Naples and thought we had picked an excellent place to stop. On Fri 10 we took the Captain Morgan ferry to Capri 25€ each.  The port was crowded with tourists like us. We went up the funicular to Capri Town and loved the shops and the gardens which had spectacular views. We had a look at the marina here full of huge motoryachts. For our 11m yacht 140€/n.  Sun 13 we motorsailed round Procida and tried to anchor in beautiful Corricella bay but too much swell, so we anchored in the sheltered bay just outside our harbour. Hundreds of weekend italian boats about.

That night we had a thunderstorm with strong winds and the Nauticat 44 beside us broke her stern moorings and landed up anchored by the bowline in the middle of the harbour. It took 6 marineros to get her back. The stern lines here are the marina's and these had broken. Tues 15 we caught the ferry to Ischia 6€. Again lots of people and the buses were full. We visited the Mordelli Gardens created by William Walton's wife which were well worth 10€ entry but took a bit of finding. Our friends left on Wed 16 in torrential rain and another thunderstorm SE F7.

 On 18 Sept we headed for Salerno where we had a free night alongside on the police pontoon. At Agropoli another free night and for the second time dropped anchor and backed onto the quay. The coast was very attractive between Agropoli and Camerota where we were met by 3 marineros though no one answered our calls. Camerota has silting problems and cost 47€. On the way to Maratea we didn't see another yacht - in fact very few seen on this coast. No answer to Ch 06 in Maratea - we learnt later Ch 74 is now used - so we put ourselves on the Porto Touristico pontoon. This is a beautiful little harbour with outdoor sculptures and paintings - well worth the visit 40€. 

 Tues 22 to Cetraro. The wind was E and as we got nearer we could see areas of white water where the wind suddenly picked  up to 30k+. High mountains here and the windy areas were opposite the valleys. For Cetraro the Pilot suggests "erratic progress with previously silted up marina", Imray notes 2009 "pontoons going in" , now September 2009 excellent. They answered our call, 2 purple shirted chaps met us , very good pontoons for visitors. We have a pilothouse which is always tricky in a cross wind and here the bow thruster only just coped. Several yachts came in whilst we were there and they all had problems with the strong E wind. This wind E ,F7 kept up for a week. The Italian Meteomar forecast VHF Ch 68 was unobtainable because of the mountains. The marina office was helpful with forecasts but no wi-fi for visitors.  We left Mon 28 for Vibo Valencia where Angie the canadian lady was as good as the Pilot said she would be! 20€/n - we stayed 3 nights.

Wed 30 we caught the tiny electric train to Lamezia Terme and then a bus to the airport to meet Hugh who had helped us from Menorca to Sardinia. On 1 Oct we motorsailed to Tropea 47€/n. We walked up to the old city which was lovely. On 4 Oct we sailed to Stromboli and went right round the island to see the black lava flow area. There was an impressive landslip as we went by. We picked up a buoy opposite the town 35€. We spent one night in the little marina on Salina 50€. Then to Pignataro harbour on Lipari - this was 35€ but a bus ride away from the busy town. We were impressed with the pumice mining on this island. On 7 Oct we sailed past a steaming Vulcano island to Milazzo on Sicily 60€ water & electric extra.

 We had worked out that 1130 on Thurs 8 Oct would be 4 +half hours after HW Gibraltar for the "tide" to be with us through The Straits of Messina. It was a lovely day and although there were lots of ferries crossing, we only saw one large car-carrying vessel coming through. The water was very swirly in places and we had to avoid the floating rubbish which was dreadful. We thought we could anchor in Saline Ioniche - not so - closed -and lorries were filling it in! We anchored off the beach just past the marina and saw the sun set over Etna. The next day we were careful to avoid the sandbank off the S breakwater at Rocella Ionica. The Guardia Costeira took all our details but we didn't have to pay here. 

Across the Gulf di Squillace it was a flat calm until we neared the next headland when we were running downwind in a F5. We reached Crotone and were waved onto a pontoon which was 40€/n. The weather broke and we eventually spent 9 nights here. We discovered we were not on the Porto Touristico area so we moved and paid 25€/n  for the last 5 nights. We had a bumpy ride to Ciro marina. We went the 16m north to reduce the distance across to Santa Maria di Leuca. Ciro was absolutely full of little boats but we found one space on the wall and tucked ourselves in. When we found someone there was no charge. We left in the dark to cross to S M di L 62miles. We didn't see another boat but a robin landed on us half way across. Easy entrance - another yacht told us Ch 12 and a chap met us. 40€ with 2 new showers. Forecast good for the next day- but then we would be stuck again so we left in the dark 21 Oct to get the 66 m to Brindisi. We had arranged to have the boat wintered ashore at Cantiere Navale Balsamo. The sun was setting ahead of us as we entered the huge harbour and motored up to the boatyard at the top where they greeted us with "we were expecting you!". They looked after us very well. Friendly people who speak English with a nightwatchman on the yard too. 29 October EasyJet from Brindisi to Milan and then on to Gatwick.