Cruising Regions of Turkey

Submitted by jim baerselman on Tue, 14/12/2010 - 15:29

Introducing Turkey

This page gives a short general description of Turkey, and briefly lists differences between the cruising regions around the coast from the Greek border to Syria. The left menu lists the region pages (members only), which give a lot more detail.

Page contents: Formalities | When to Go |  What to See | Summary of Cruising Regions | Further Information

Introduction. Turkey, outside the EU,  is surprisingly green and fertile after Greece. Magnificent mountains back most of the coastline. Byzantine, Roman, Greek and even pre-Hellenic ruins are everywhere. Sophisticated marinas and world class hotels (with world class prices!) sit close to dirt roads, hamlets, and herds of goats. Everywhere, slender minarets call the faithful to prayer - a sharp wake-up at 0500. In quieter spots, food is good value, beautifully presented by courteous owners. With these attractions, major tourist destinations have been developed. Night long noise in a few bays are some of the symptoms. Pestering salesmanship (and some very subtle carpet salesmanship!) are others. Sections of the south west coast have been badly scarred with large quadrilaterals of dense, low rise house developments. But the good news is that Turkey is really convenient and comfortable. Enterprise and recovering prosperity show no signs of corrupting the exquisite manners, infectious humour and irresistible charm of the Turkish people.

Map of Turkey Cruising Regions: Map of Turkey Cruising Regions
The Sailing.  The coastline, around 3,000 miles, is deeply indented in the south west, and includes areas rich with small anchorages.  These are very popular and become crowded with boats and Gülets (large Turkish tour boats). Marina facilities, many excellent, dot the coasts just a day sail apart. New ones spring up every year. Some justify international (but not yet UK Solent) prices, as can an increasing number of hotels and restaurants. Chartering is well developed. However, escaping the crowds is always possible, especially for those prepared to cruise further afield. Going east of Antalya, or north of Kuşadası, to the sea of Marmaris or the Black Sea coasts will show an older take on Turkey, with few yachts and little affected by tourism.For those with 4 weeks or so in hand, a cruise first along the Turkish coast, then returning through the Greek offshore islands (or vica versa), is a rewarding experience of contrasts.

Formalities. There are plenty of ports of entry, and they must be used when entering or leaving the country. Bureaucracy can be frustrating and expensive, and sadly, the cruising permit system makes it expensive and timewasting to briefly visit neighbouring Greek islands legally. 'Agents' will offer services, such as entry paperwork, or importing spares. For this they will commonly add a minimum of 10% to any costs (often more), but they do save time. See Rules and Regulations, Turkey for the full story. 

Yacht Support. Except east of Antalya, yacht support is good, some of the best value in the Mediterranean, especially for wood work. Imported yacht spares are more expensive than in Greece. Some 30 marinas offer a wide range of services - at a wide range of prices. But these are generally good value compared to equivalent services in the West Mediterranean. Winter layup is easily arranged, and many marinas support large live-aboard communities. Fuelling berths are rare in quieter regions, away from marinas, so top up when you can.

Weather, and When to Go

The weather is typical Mediterranean. A comfortable sailing season extends from May to October. The Black Sea is wetter and colder, with a shorter season. Summer on the west and south west coasts is dominated by northerly and north westerly meltemi winds. Near the Dardanelles these are NE, and follow the coast around, blowing westerly from Marmaris to Kas, then dropping in strength further east. Strength? Periods of F6 to F7 should be expected, lighter as you round the Bodrum peninsula and head east, but a big swell does not develop. During summer there will be two or three periods when temperatures become uncomfortably hot, over 38C for three to four days at a time.

Where to go and what to see

Turkey is extraordinarily rich in archaeological treasures, and there are many guide books which can (and should) be consulted. Heikell's Turkish Waters Pilot gives details of the hundreds of fascinating places accessible from harbours and well worth a visit. Worth a voyage are:

  • The Topkapi Palace in Istanbul 
  • The ruins of Troy (Dardanelles)
  • The ruins of Pergamon (Aegean coast)
  • The ruins of Ephesus (Aegean coast)
  • The Crusaders' castle at Bodrum (Gulf of Gökova)
  • The ruins of Caunos (Lycian coast)
  • The ruins of Xanthos (Lycian coast)
  • The Castle (Kale Köy), Kekova (Lycian coast)
  • The ruins of Arykanda (Lycian coast)
  • The ruins of Phaselis (Gulf of Antalya)
  • The ruins of Termessos (Gulf of Antalya)
  • The ruins of Perge (Gulf of Antalya)
  • The Roman theatre at Aspendos (Gulf of Antalya)

Worth an inland journey are:  

  • Pammukale and the ruins of Aphrodisias (inland from Kusadasi)
  • The rock churches of Cappadocia (Central Turkey)

But if you find this list of antiquities forbidding, try the modern markets for a total change of pace. But you can still be sure of finding for yourself out of the way places which are not in any guide book but which will stun you with their beauty.

Cruising Regions

 The Sea of Marmara. South of the Greek border, the narrow Dardanelles, crowded with shipping, lead to the Sea of Marmara and Istanbul. This is a quiet and attractive cruising ground with simple fishing harbours and soft, rolling Devonian landscapes. An older way of life pervades the region, and in quieter places women are rarely seen out of doors. Istanbul, at the entrance to the Bosphorus channel is an exception, and can (and must!) be visited from any of three marinas within a few miles of this interesting city. Plan to spend a few days here. The narrow Bosphorus leads to the Black Sea. Challenges in the area are strong SW currents through the narrow channels, and (outside early summer) persistent NE winds.

Dardanelles to Çeşme. The Aeolian coast (Aegean) has over 200nm of coastline. The only decent shelter for the northern 60nm is Bozcaada, worth a visit. South of Baba Burun (opposite Lesvos) is a good cruising area with a sometimes spectacular coastline, several attractive anchorages and harbours, and 4 marinas. Not many charter boats sail here, but it is popular for weekenders from Izmir. The Ayvalık archipelago and marina are a favourite stop. The ruins of Pergamon (unmissable) are in the hills behind Dikili.

Çeşme to the Bodrum Peninsula. The Ionian coast (Aegean) from Çeşme to Gümüslük includes about 110 nm of coastline. The whole coast 30nm north of Kuşadası has been comprehensively raped by holiday villages. Kuşadası itself is an unrepentantly brash tourist resort, served by massive cruise liners bringing visitors to Ephesus, just 10nm north east. Don't miss Ephesus, probably the most impressive ruins in Turkey. Away from the worst developments there are quieter anchorages. The Gulf of Güllük (south) offers a maze of choice, but you will competing for space with charter boats and fish farms.

Gümüslük to Marmaris. The SW corner (the Carian coast), includes both Bodrum (a most attractive town) and Marmaris, two major charter centres for all types of yachts. Although these towns are only 40nm apart, there is nearly 200nm of coastline between them, deeply indented with gulfs and headlands. Yes, there is villa sprawl, noise, and dense tourism around the Bodrum peninsula, but there are quiet anchorages to be found, especially in the gulf of Hisaronü. Yacht support is excellent. Marmaris bay, large enough for Nelson’s fleet, is exceptionally beautiful, but heavily developed on the Western side. However, the big marina is on the Eastern side, so you can pretend not to be a tourist.

Marmaris to Antalya. The Lycian (Mediterranean) coast, from Marmaris east to Antalya (about 180 miles) hs rather lighter winds. Sometimes called the Turquoise Coast, this is perhaps the most popular cruising area – popular with flotillas and charter boats too. With the coastline backed by pine-clad mountains, there are many beautiful harbours and anchorages. In particular there is the spectacular Gulf of Skopea, with Göçek and Fethiye at the head; and the lagoons of Kekova Roads, East of Kas. 5 marinas and 2 airports make the area very convenient. Antalya is also a major tourist resort, but perhaps has better manners than those further West and certainly has a well-restored Ottoman district overlooking the old harbour.

Antalya to the East. The Pamphylian and Cilician coasts, east from Antalya to the Syrian border (about 300 miles) ave noticeably lighter winds. Apart from the resort of Alanya, there is little tourist development here yet, and there are no marinas. There are no charter boats either, and very few cruising yachts, so you can enjoy a gentle amble all the way to Mersin, calling in at little coves among the pines, small fishing harbours, and, when you run out of supplies, the relatively busy ferry port of Tasucu. Mersin is a big commercial harbour but has a corner for yachts. Further east yachts are rare, and you must take your chances among the trawlers at Iskenderun

The Black Sea. The Black Sea coast east to Hopa (about 550 miles) and west to Midye (about 60 miles) is sterner, undeveloped stuff, and with less detail in the Pilot. The weather in the Black Sea is cooler and more subject to cold fronts than the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts. Perhaps not to be undertaken lightly.

Further Information

Useful Amenities

Ports of Entry: Mediterranean: Ayvalik, Bodrum, Bozburun, Cesme, Datca, Dikili, Gulluk, Izmir, Kusadasi, Marmaris, Fethiye, Finike, Kas, Kemer, Antalya, Alanya, Iskenderun, Mersin, Tasucu. Sea of Marmara: Canakkale, Bandirma, ,Mudanya, Tekirdag, Istanbul. Black Sea: Bartin, Eregli, Giresun, Hopa, Inebolu, Rize, Samsun, Sinop, Trabzon, Zonguldak.

Layup or Wintering. Spoilt for choice, with many winter live-aboard communities

Transport Links. Scheduled flights from Istanbul and Izmir. Summer charter flights from Izmir, Bodrum, Dalaman, Antalya. Internal transport by Dolmus (stuffed . . .) - unscheduled frequent minibuses.

Links

Except for 'new window' - use your back button to return to this page!
CA Local representatives Help in your region
Turkey, the Country Turkey facts, rules and regulations.
Pilot Book Updates Large .pdf file for Turkey in new window
Cruising Reports Entries made from link below
Making a report. Use region 'Turkey'; your post will immediately appear in the link above
email regional editor A report only visible to regional editor, until it's re-entered as a report!
CA Discounts . Some of these marina dscounts more than pay for your membership fees!

Acknowledgements: Based on Michael Manton’s original, re-edited for web by Jim Baerselman, with contributions from John Walker. Page editing and map Jim Baerselman. Last review: 17 Mar 2011.

»