Introducing the Adriatic
Submitted by jim baerselman on Fri, 12/03/2010 - 12:45
This page very briefly compares cruising regions around the whole Adriatic coastline, from the heel of Italy clockwise to the Greek border. Indiviual regions are described on pages reached from the left menu, only visible to members.
Page Contents: Getting There | Regulations Warning | Weather | When to Go | Further Information
Introduction. The Adriatic, 420nm long and 100nm wide, contains the spectacular Dalmatian coast of Croatia. This superb cruising ground should not be missed. Italy, along the west and north shores, is strictly a coast of passage, with few anchorages, though day sailing along the coast from marina to marina (or port) is possible. In northern Italy marinas are closely spaced. Venice and Bologna are 'must sees'. Slovenia, with only 10nm of coast, is within the EU; Croatia is not in the EU, so be prepared for the paperwork. The holiday playgound of the Istrian peninsula leads to the Adriatic's most popular cruising region - 300 nm of the Dalmatian coast. Sheltered by parallel rows of long islands, this offers flat water cruising, sometimes interrupted by the powerful bora wind. The islands form and shelter hundreds of safe anchorages. Some 50 (good but expensive) marinas serve cruisers and large numbers of charter boats. These often stake first claim on otherwise adequate yacht support services. South of Dubrovnic (must visit) are Montenegro and Albania, both outside the EU, leading to Greece.
Unique charms of the area are Croatia's carefully preserved old towns, a lively cafe culture, nature reserves with rich scenery, and hundreds of quiet anchorages.
Snags are lack of sandy beaches in Dalmatia, crowded high season sailing, many un-predictable charter boats, and a feeling in Croatia that you have to pay every step of the way, even though it is not expensive by Italian standards.
The Dalmatian coast can be reached by day sailing along the Italian coast. This avoids the paperwork inevitable when coasting through Albania and Montenegro. The whole trip along Italy to Venice,in the NW corner, is around 420nm. However, crossing the Adriatic from Vieste to Ubli (port of entry on Lastovo island) or Korkula (port of entry) is popular, possible in a long day sail. For those in a hurry, an overnight trip to Dubrovnic (port of entry) from Brindisi (120nm), Bari (100nm) or Trani (90nm) is suitable. From Corfu to Cavtat/Dubrovnic direct (180nm) needs two nights at sea for smaller yachts.
Non-EU passport holders, before departing from the EU to enter Croatia, Montenegro or Albania must obtain an exit stamp from EU immigration. This stops the clock on their Schengen visas.
All vessels going to or from any non-EU countries must fly the Q flag and report to the immigration and port authorities at the first feasible port of entry. For instance, after 1 April (when Cavtat opens as a port of entry), from the south enter at Cavtat rather than at Dubrovnic.
The Admiralty Pilot and Imray’s pilot describe the weather pattern well.The North and Central Adriatic are not far enough south to avoid the N European weather systems. Summer fronts often extend into the northern half of the Adriatic, bringing typical European weather with them.
Unsettled Weather. When a cold front approaches from the west this usually means S/SE winds starting light and, over 2/3 days, gradually increasing, veering and finally going NW as the front goes through. The process often finishes with a NE bora wind reinforced by the katabatic influences of the mountainous coast.
The Bora Wind. This very strong NE katabatic wind, blasting down the steep mountainsides of Croatia and around Trieste, is an occasional serious threat to navigation in summer (3% chance). It is amore frequent and widespread winter threat (20%). It may last 12 hours, or for two days, and may create local gusts of 40 to 60kts (occasionally more). The fine weather bora sometimes arrives with littlewarning. Weather Online gives a more detailed description.
Settled Weather is less frequent than in the rest of the Mediterranean. In high-pressure conditions, with little cloud, a gentle wind comes up in mid-morning from the SW and follows the sun around, increasing by late afternoon to NW 5 or more. It drops before sunset for a peaceful night. The land breeze starts in the early hours blowing from land to sea for three to four hours and is usually gentle. Large islands develop their own system.
Interpreting Forecasts. Forecasts, repeated on Navtex, cover quite large sea areas and usually add an ‘along the coast’ forecast. To interpret forecasts along the islnds and highlnds of the Dalmatian coast, consider the following:
- Much of the Croatian coast has adjacent mountains rising to around 1000 metres.
- There are up to 3 lines of islands or peninsulas extending in a NW/SE direction along the mainland extending from the Kvarner gulf to Dubrovnik.
- Even light breezes strengthen when their path is compressed between islands or concentrated in bays.
- As the wind increases above Force 5 a pleasant anchorage in the lee of high ground becomes very lively as the wind sweeps down the lee side in gusts.
- Sea breeze and land breezes, created in clear conditions, are stronger near larger islands and steep coasts.
So, although winds resulting from frontal systems and pressure differentials are likely to be as predicted when more than twenty miles off the Dalmatian coast, close to the land and amongst islands the wind may be re-directed, reinforced or ameliorated by any of the above factors. In light to moderate conditions, along a twenty-mile stretch ofcoast the wind may blow around the compass in a 24-hour period, in opposite directions at the same time and within a few miles. One yacht lying at anchor has a peaceful night whilst another, a couple of miles away and apparently just as sheltered, spends the night dragging and on anchor watch. Think of the coastal zone as being a line of battle between the land and sea breezes, and frontal system winds, modified by land configuration.
Thunderstorms can be particularly violent, even terrifying as the wind rises and reverses. Sailboards and unsecured gearfly around and off yachts. Pula has on average more than fifty thunderstorms each year. Here and in the Kvarner Gulf heed warnings of thunderstorms with great respect. Violent storms have occasionally driven yachts ashore, even in mid-season.
The season for cruising yachts starts at Easter, when things are busy for a couple of weeks. Except along the Croatian coast, whichis always busy, cruising is then quieter until peak season, starting mid-July, when hordes of Italian yachts of all shapes, sizes and levels of experience flood along the coast. There are big motor yachts with their skiers and ski boats, and small motor boats with string-and-tooth-pick anchors. During peak season it is often necessary to arrive early to find a berth, and you'll need a back up plan in case your first choice is full. In the third week of August the visitors disappear just as quickly, leaving the area to the Germans and Austrians with their staggered holidays. All is quiet again through September and October.
- Pilot Books and Charts
- The principal English language pilot for the whole area is Imray's Adriatic Pilot (Trevor and Dinah Thompson, 5th ed 2008) to which the CA's Pilot Updates and Lay-up information refer.
